RabbitEARS

Guinea Pig Essentials

Guinea pig care links

  • Guinea lynx – comprehensive guide to care. Start with the “Care guide” sections in the 2 left columns for the basics, such as what to feed, how to handle, what’s normal, cleaning tips for the cage, grooming tips for the piggies
  • Youtube LA Guinea Pig Rescue with Saskia has lots of instructional videos on wide range of topics

Food and water

  • Water
    • Clean, fresh water should be available 24/7
    • Filtered water is preferable to reduce minerals
    • Do not add vitamin supplements to water – they can make it unpalatable, and cause mold in water bottles
    • Water bottle vs. bowl
      • Most guinea pigs drink readily from bottles
      • Some guinea pigs drink in a way that causes water to drip from bottles; putting bottles over bedding to catch the water may be necessary.
      • Bowls should be tip-proof, and the water may need to be changed frequently to remove bedding and debris.
  • Hay 
    • Hay should make up the majority of a guinea pig’s diet. Clean, fresh hay should be available 24/7
      • Timothy hay is most commonly used
      • Orchard hay is preferred for people with allergies
      • DO NOT feed alfalfa hay, except to pregnant mothers and babies
    • Hay holder
      • Guinea pigs love to burrow in hay, so putting it in a pile on the floor of the cage is fine! Just be sure to refresh hay regularly – they also go to the bathroom where they eat, so some of the hay on the ground will become bedding.
      • Hay can be provided in a hay rack to keep it off the ground, but make sure the guinea pig cannot get stuck (some have wide bars)
  • Pellets
    • Feed limited quantities of high-quality timothy-based pellets
      • We recommend brands such as Oxbow, Small Pet Select
      • Follow the feeding instructions on the bag – e.g., ⅛ cup per guinea pig per day
  • Veggies
    • Guinea pigs should receive fresh veggies every day – about 1 cup per day
    • Veggies, along with pellets, are an important source of vitamin C
    • What to feed
      • Lettuce (not iceberg), cucumbers, tomatoes, bell peppers, and corn (husks and kernels) can be fed daily
      • Endive/escarole, swiss chard, and cilantro are also popular, and can be fed regularly (~3x per week).
      • Feed high-calcium foods sparingly (1x per week). This includes parsley, kale, and spinach.
      • Feed items high in sugar sparingly. This includes carrots and fruit.
      • Guinea lynx has great resources on common foods
    • Calcium
      • Some guinea pigs are prone to bladder stones, and keeping them on a low-calcium diet can help prevent stone formation. If your guinea pig’s urine contains high levels of calcium (urine leaves white spots that consist of a white, chalky powder when dry), sticking to low-calcium fruits and veggies is advised.
        • A good place to start can be “lettuce and below” – feed veggies that have the same or lower concentrations of calcium than lettuce (36 mg/100g). See the guinea lynx calcium chart for a good guide.
        • Consult your veterinarian! Different guinea pigs might benefit from different levels of restrictions
  • Where to stock up on pellets and hay
    • RabbitEARS sells hay and pellets 
    • Small Pet Select – for hay, pellets
    • Feed stores such as Concord Feed (several east bay locations) carry hay, pellets
    • Pet stores rarely sell hay in large enough quantities, but often carry Oxbow pellets
  • Treats
    • Supplements: Oxbow Vitamin C supplements are a great daily addition that most guinea pigs love
    • Extra treats are optional! Many guinea pigs like:
      • Pea flakes
      • Compressed timothy treats (e.g., Oxbow Enriched Life Timothy lollipops)
    • Most treats sold in pet stores are not suitable for guinea pigs – e.g., treats with seeds, yogurt drops, etc., are bad for guinea pigs

Cages and supplies

  • Cage
    • Cage size
      • A bigger cage will keep your guinea pigs and you happier. It encourages them to be more active and you’ll be able to interact with them more easily. It might surprise you but it can be easier to clean a larger cage too.
      • Minimum cage sizes:
        • 1-2 guinea pigs: 8 square feet
        • 3 guinea pigs: 10 square feet
    • Cage type
      • ‘Traditional’ cages found at pet stores don’t provide enough space for guinea pigs.  Even though the cage top may have the correct dimensions, the base is tapered and reduces floor space. Modern cages have straight sides in order to maximize space.
      • Most modern cages are “C&C”, which stands for Cubes and Coroplast. They consist of a waterproof base made of plastic (often coroplast), with metal wire sides (made from modular wire cube shelf components).
      • Ready-made cages
        • Cagetopia – C&C cages in many configurations and sizes
        • Guinea pig cage company – C&C cages, many sizes
        • Midwest Habitat – Another acceptable cage, not C&C, not as flexible to enhance as a C&C cage, but multiple cages can be connected if you want to expand. 8 sq. ft.
      • DIY cages
        • Grids
          • Grid size: 14”, with grid holes no larger than 1.5”/3.8cm – any larger is a danger to your guinea pig, as they can potentially get stuck.
          • Quantity: plan your cage! The minimum cage size is typically 2×4 grids, so 12 grids total. Purchasing extras can be helpful in case you want to expand or build a lid.
          • Can purchase as closet grids or guinea pig cage grids, at local stores or Amazon. Grids come with connectors.
        • Base
          • Coroplast (corrugated plastic) allows you to have a rigid base with sides
            • Guinea pig cages has step-by-step instructions on how to make a C&C cage, including details on how to cut and shape coroplast
            • Available for purchase at Tap Plastics, Home Depot, or sign supply stores. 4’x8’ sheet, 4ml thick. Bring a box cutter or exacto knife with you to score (cut across one side of the plastic only) to be able to fold in half to bring home easily, or may be able to roll up and hold in place with duct tape or rope.
          • Other waterproof bases without sides are possible (e.g., heavy duty plastic shower curtain), but sides are often preferable to contain mess in the cage.
    • Cage Cover
      • If you have dogs or cats at home, your cage must have a cover. The sites above sell cages with suitable covers, and you can also add one for your DIY cage. If this doesn’t apply to you, an open-top cage can be good and makes it easier to interact with your guinea pig. 
    • Cage Placement
      • Indoors only
      • Keep cage out of direct sunlight
      • Keep cage out of drafts from A/C or heating
      • Place in a main room where people will be (not a child’s bedroom), along a wall (not in the middle of a room) so that they are part of your household’s social life
  • Storage
    • Guinea pigs have a lot of stuff! Hay, bedding, food, and accessories all take up space. Some people choose to raise the cage off the ground to have storage underneath. Note that this wouldn’t be a good option if you choose to make a door in your cage for your guinea pigs to be able to walk into their floor time area (see floor time below). 
    • C&C grid stands
      • Use additional C&C grids and connectors to raise the cage in order to have space underneath.
      • Needs vertical support at every junction in order to support the weight of the cage (can’t leave the center open for a large storage space)
      • Companies selling ready-made C&C cages often carry cage stands, or these can be DIY
    • Cube shelf stand (DIY)
      • Materials:
        • IKEA Kallax cube shelves
          • 1×2 cubes for a short stand (~17”)
          • 2×2 cubes for a taller stand (~31”)
          • Minimum of 2 shelves, depending on orientation (if facing shelves forward, have two back-to-back to support the front and back of the tabletop – you’ll have a double-depth cubby).
        • MDF or other top from the hardware store (Home Depot or many other stores will do 2 cuts for free, so you can get the top cut without tools at home); optional MDF iron-on edging
        • Metal brackets
      • Use the cube shelves laying horizontally as a base, lay MDF or other tabletop on top, and attach base to top using metal brackets
  • Bedding
    • Both disposable and reusable bedding options are available
      • Disposable:
        • Recycled paper (Carefresh, Oxbow Pure Comfort)
        • Kiln-dried pine shavings or pellets
        • Aspen shavings
        • DO NOT use cedar shavings, straw, or corncob bedding
      • Reusable:
        • Commercial fleece pads
        • DIY fleece pads
          • “Polar fleece” that you can buy online or at fabric stores at various sites by the yard. Buy 1 yard pieces of 60″ polar fleece, fold over once to fit half the cage (should have 2 layers)
          • IKEA TOFTBO bath mats
          • Waterproof layer can be helpful (and also good for floor time): Guinea pig Market has some, and another hack is bed pads + a separate fleece on top. If you put this under hidey houses, the piggies will tend to pee/poop there and it makes cleaning easier
    • Pros and Cons
CostMain CleaningUpkeep
DisposableAffordable up-front, more expensive long-termFull clean typically 1x per week
Waste goes into trash or compost		Spot cleaning in high-traffic areas every 2-3 days
Reusable padsMore expensive up-front, saves money long-termFull clean typically 1-2x per week
Laundry		Daily spot cleaning
  • Combining disposable and reusable bedding can be a good strategy to reduce bedding costs while managing upkeep
    • Reusable fleece bedding across most of the cage
    • Disposable bedding in eating and bathroom areas
      • Guinea pigs poop and pee where they eat. By adding a bin or litter box with bedding in the ‘kitchen’ area with their hay, pellets, and water bottles, some of the mess can be contained. Make sure that there is a low side to the bin so they can easily walk in and out.
      • Disposable bedding can be helpful under water bottles so that the fleece does not get soaked if they leak.
      • Guinea Pig Cages store shows how to do this, using their “kitchen” setup. You can also do this on your own simply by putting the disposable bedding side by side with the fleece, or by making your own kitchen with leftover coroplast or by cutting the side out of the base of a storage tote.
  • Accessories
    • Hides
      • Guinea pigs need to be able to hide to stay safe. They need covered hideys and you can also cover a portion of the cage (can drape fabric over part of the top of cage). You’ll want to have enough hideys so that each pig has one, plus extra hideys, tunnels and other accessories to swap them out for environmental enrichment.
      • Examples and suppliers
    • Toys
      • Guinea pigs are not actually into most of the store-bought items marketed  as toys (such as balls or little wood pieces). They would rather have space to move around and hides, tunnels, and other objects they can lounge in or walk through.
      • Enrichment
        • Toilet paper tube, empty tissue box stuffed with hay
        • Oxbow Enriched Life chews/similar
        • A large piece of paper (like newspaper or brown packing paper) to walk under and chew
        • Cardboard boxes with holes to walk through

Socialization & Floor time

Guinea pigs are social within their species and with you, their human family. You should plan to socialize with your guinea pig every day, spending time in the same room with them. Ways to interact with them include holding them (most of them like being pet), hand feeding, and sitting on the floor with them while they explore. 

Floor time in a safe space every day is important to their health and happiness. Many sites have tips for setting up a floor time area, such as setting up a large enclosed area with grids, creating a door in a c&c cage so your pigs can walk in and out as they choose, or even guinea-pig proofing a whole room for free range time!

Veterinary Care

  • Bay area exotics vets
  • Pet insurance
    • Veterinary care for guinea pigs can be very expensive, particularly in the Bay area.
    • Nationwide is the only company that provides pet insurance for guinea pigs.
    • Check with your employer to see if pet insurance is included among your benefits!
    • Note that pre-existing conditions are not covered in the first year (e.g., tumors, cysts), so getting insurance early will help for coverage later on (i.e., don’t wait until your guinea pig gets sick to pursue coverage)
  • Routine care
    • Weights
      • Guinea pigs are good at hiding illness, so an early sign that something is wrong can be weight loss. If you have a kitchen scale, weighing your guinea pigs weekly can be a good practice.
    • Nail trimming
      • Guinea pigs need their nails trimmed every 4-8 weeks.
      • Materials:
      • Nail trimming how to video
        • It can be easier to have two people when trimming nails: one to hold the guinea pig and feed treats, and a second person to do the trimming. Holding the foot can also be helpful if your guinea pig pulls away.
  • Emergencies
    • Guinea pigs are good at hiding discomfort, so when problems appear they often need immediate attention. Your guinea pig will need to see a vet, but having certain items on hand can help to manage problems.
    • We recommend stocking the following items:
      • Emergency food, such as EmerAid Sustain Herbivore (by Lafeber) or Oxbow Critical Care 
      • Feeding syringe (10 or 20ml, long wide tip (aka catheter tip), available at Pet Food Express, online, or from vet office)